In true ‘trattoria moderna’ (looks old, sounds old, feels old, is not old) fashion, Santo Palato, or ‘Holy Palate’ offers a daily changing menu that celebrates classic Roman dishes. Chef Sarah Cicolini’s cooking is gutsy, soulful and full of attitude. Her ragu, deeply savoury yet soft and gentle, dresses supple strands of fresh pappardelle. It sighs off the fork. Trippa alla romana is bright, fresh and crying out for charred toast. Her unapologetically rich carbonara is so salty it almost stands up and walks out of the room. She executes her dishes with a firm, confident and focussed hand. Cheffing wasn’t Cicolini’s first choice of career. She initially studied medicine. But the passion for the kitchen far outweighed the passion for medicine. Lucky, really. No one wants a doctor who’d rather braise a shin bone than mend it.
RECIPES BELOW
A Roman trattoria classic.
A classic Roman tripe dish full of robust flavours, best served with crusty bread.